At 2am this morning we had planned to get up and climb the Lhotse face to C3. It had snowed lightly all night, but at 2am there was lightning and thunder with high winds pounding our tents. It is now 3pm in the afternoon and the winds and snow have continued all day. We have been marooned in our tents on a sea of ice by the fickleness of the weather.

Last Friday the 30th April, we left BC at 3am and climbed in light winds and snow again up the shifting Ice Fall on our 2nd rotation. This time we all made it in under 6 ½ hours. Saturday we moved up here to C2 at the foot of Lhotse.