A Dream REACHED - Everest Expedition 2010

The Everest challenge was everything and more than my original expectations. Heading back up the Khumbu Valley after 40 years (December 1969) and especially arriving in Namche Bazaar, was a moving moment for me. That original experience of trekking to Everest Base Camp alone 40 years ago and having a dream, even if it was in a distant recess of my mind, to go back and climb this great mountain some day, was a fulfilling and huge life experience. It made me realize that I am exactly the same guy now as I was then, needing adventure, needing challenges, living life with passion. I had no idea if I would make it, but I knew that nothing, at least under my control, would stop me from giving it my best shot. There are some things in life you just have to do.

The climb itself was unique. The time duration was long. Everest Base Camp is a small international community that is a 'one of a kind' in the world. I think there is no other comparison to any other sport or adventure that resembles those 2 months every year so many diverse people assemble with one purpose to test themselves and risk everything on this Himalayan icon of mountaineering. The friendship one develops spending literally day and night together with a small group who depend on each other for support and safety. The absolute decisiveness and clarity of mind one must have to hang in there and succeed. The significant cost involved that one is prepared to spend just to have a 'go' at it.

The rewards are many. Climbing through the dangerous Ice Fall crossing ladders and crevasses teaches managing fear. Getting up at 2am in the cold, day after day, teaches diligence and strength of character. The long hours of physical endurance teaches fortitude and determination. The passion to want to do it at all teaches spirit and love of life. The beauty, albeit stark, teaches appreciation of life at the extreme end.

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Great news!!!! I still am trying to believe it. I summitted Mount Everest at around 8:15am the 23rd of May. It was certainly one of the most difficult challenges of my life. It was definitely the most technical and dangerous climb I have ever done. Fortunately, I am suffering only a little frostbite in one finger ( I may lose the tip only) and some peripheral edema that I am mostly over. Everything considered, I am very lucky.

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Good news. We are on our way to the summit very soon, tomorrow at 3am is the plan. The weather forecast is promising. It is just a question of team planning and final weather analysis. The Jet Stream is moving north and the window is opening. The final dynamics are unfolding and we will all know within a week or do how we will do. It is both scary and thrilling.

The summit of Everest has only about 25% air pressure (likewise 25% oxygen) as exists at sea level. At Camp 4 (26,000’) we will probably be there for only hours before leaving to climb around 9pm to the summit. Summit day is usually 18 hours. The hope is to arrive at the summit at sunrise.

My next post will be when we're back to BC around the 25^th, weather deciding.

This is it. My turn to practice what I preach and 'go for it' !

Today 5 of us hiked, by way of Pumo Ri to Kala Patthar. It is a 4 ½ hour hike over scree and boulders to a summit pinnacle with spectacular views of the Khumbu Valley, Khumbu Glacier, Base Camp and Everest itself. It is effectively a panoramic view of the entire area.

We are still on standby mode at BC. Every night we can hear the cracking and screeching sounds of the moving glacier under our tents. Avalanches, especially very early morning come crashing down, mostly it seems from Nupste, but also in all directions. Some break the silence for moments, other create great clouds of snow and mist and thunder that mushroom over a wide area as they crash down onto the Khumbu Glacier. Fortunately, none reach our encampment.